It was a ritual in our family for
my father to take us all out to
Naples Restaurant, on Broadway, in
San Antonio, every Sunday for a big
meal. The food was fantastic. The
owner/chef, Ralph Branchizio had
come to San Antonio from New York,
and was originally from Naples,
Italy. The story went that he had,
from time to time, served on Italian
ships as a cabin boy and chef. He
eventually went ashore in New York
City, and never looked back. He’d
worked his way up taking any job he
could get, perfecting his skills in
New York’s Italian restaurants.
Soon, he had a reputation as a fine
chef. In 1937, when Nick Rongetti
was about to open his club in
Greenwich Village and was looking
around for a chef to run the
kitchen, he hired Ralph. In the
process, Nick’s became the best
steakhouse in New York. Nick also
played the piano and began to
feature six and seven piece jazz
bands of great quality. The place
was a roaring success.
The secret to Nick’s ‘sizzling
steaks’ was Ralph’s technique of
grilling over live charcoal. Few, in
New York, were grilling on charcoal.
Ralph had another trick. He made
sure that brandy was poured on the
scalding hot platters. This made the
steaks sizzle as they were brought
to the table. The combination of the
charcoal grilled steak and sizzling
brandy created a sweet and smoky
atmosphere in the club that was
unique.
Well, back to San Antonio. Ralph
would be in the kitchen at Naples
Restaurant every week and over time
we got to hear all his stories. My
father and I would bring visiting
musicians into Naples Restaurant to
have a great meal and meet Ralph.
Also, Ralph was a big fan of classic
jazz. And his first question was
always, “Did you ever play at
Nick’s?” And if the answer was
‘yes,’ he’d fall all over our guest.
One night I brought the trumpeter
and leader of the
Tonight Show Band, Doc
Severinsen into Naples Restaurant
for a feast. I went back to the
kitchen to bring Ralph out to meet
him. But Ralph said to me, “Jim,
look at me, I’m full of tomato
sauce. I’m too busy. I can’t come
out.” I said, “But Ralph, I’ve been
telling Doc all about you and how
you worked at Nick’s.” And Ralph
says, “Look I get doctors in here
all the time, I can’t talk to all of
them!” I said, “No, no, he’s not a
doctor! He’s a great trumpet player
from New York and bandleader—he’s on
television!” Ralph looked me in the
eye and said, “Did he work at
Nick’s?” “No,” I said, “He never
worked at Nick’s.” Ralph shrugged
his shoulders dismissively. “Well
then, he can’t be any good.” And
that was that.